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Aotearoa - untamed
Vibrant + electric
Thailand is Asia's top travel destination for more reasons than one. From the lush mountain jungles, traditional villages and sacred culture of the North to the turquoise waters and white-sand tropical beaches of the South, there's something here for every traveller.
Get off the beaten track, immerse yourself in authentic local culture, explore grand palaces and ancient temples, shop the vibrant night markets, take a cooking class, sip a super-cheap cocktail and eat some of the best street food on the planet. Thailand is a backpacker's dream come true, and this guide covers the essentials plus its two great cities: Bangkok and Chiang Mai.
All of Thailand runs on Bangkok time, seven hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT+7), with no daylight saving. It's the same time zone as Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam.
Thailand has a tropical monsoon climate with two main seasons. The dry season (November to February) is cooler and less humid, with temperatures ranging from as low as 15 degrees Celsius in the north up to 35 degrees. The wet season (May to October) is hot and very humid, with 80 to 100 per cent humidity and temperatures in the high 30s.
The currency is the Thai Baht (B), in coins of 1, 2, 5 and 10 Baht and notes of 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000. Thailand is well set up for travellers: ATMs are in nearly every developed town and city, money changing is easy at the main airports and most banks, and converting Baht back to other currencies is straightforward too.
Competition for the tourist dollar is fierce, so expect enthusiastic sales pitches on the street and in markets. Bangkok has large international brands across its network of malls, other cities lean on smaller Thai malls and markets, and night markets everywhere are the best spots to pick up souvenirs, try street food and people-watch. Larger cities have supermarkets and most western conveniences, and every town has at least one 7-Eleven.
Visit a travel doctor before you go and discuss the vaccinations you might need. Mosquito-borne diseases including dengue fever and, in remote areas, malaria are present, so pack strong insect repellent (30 per cent DEET or higher). Valid, current travel insurance is essential and is required to travel with Stray.
A city of contrasts with highlights at every corner, Bangkok is dynamic, full of life, character and culture. Tuk-tuks, boats and sky trains; shining temples and humble street markets; 200-year-old village homes beneath a sea of skyscrapers, with the Chao Phraya River and its canals snaking through it all. It's crazy all day and even crazier at night.
Here's a party trick: Bangkok is only the English name. To Thais, the city is Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit, which begins 'The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha'. The elaborate network of canals (khlongs) also earned it the nickname 'Venice of the East'.
Bangkok is heaven for foodies, and you'll find something for every budget, from a full three-course street-cart meal on Khao San Road for a few dollars to Chinatown's fast, tasty roadside seafood. Local favourites to tick off:
For drinks, the city runs from plastic-chair street bars to chic rooftops. The standouts are Moon Bar, open-air on the 61st floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel; the Rooftop Bar on the 83rd floor of the Baiyoke Sky Hotel; and Sky Bar on the 63rd floor of the Lebua Hotel, of The Hangover Part II fame, where the cocktails cost a little more but the views over the Chao Phraya are priceless.
From Suvarnabhumi International Airport to the Khao San Road area, a metered taxi costs roughly 270 to 500 Baht depending on traffic, plus around 70 Baht in expressway tolls and a 50 Baht airport service fee paid to the driver. Public minivans are cheaper per person but pick up from multiple hotels, so allow up to two hours for the trip.
A 700-year-old city with a thriving creative scene, modern attractions and a huge array of adventure activities, Chiang Mai (meaning 'New City') has all the fun of Bangkok without the rough edges. From leafy boulevards to misty mountains and lush rainforest, this serene city balances the traditional and the contemporary, with an unmistakably youthful vibe that draws expats, artists and backpackers alike.
Chiang Mai has some of the best and cheapest street food in Thailand. The number one dish to try is khao soi: a rich, aromatic coconut milk and yellow curry broth served over tender chicken drumsticks and soft egg noodles, topped with crispy fried noodles, fresh shallots, lime and pickled mustard greens. Follow it with gaeng hang lay, a Burmese-style sweet pork curry with a tamarind base, and stick to the night markets to keep your baht intact. Bars and pubs cluster within walking distance of the Night Bazaar and Old City, with cheaper drinks than Bangkok, theme nights, live music and sport on the big screens.
If your Thailand plans include the islands, the legendary Full Moon Party on Koh Phangan is the biggest beach party in Asia, held every month under the full moon. We've covered everything you need to know, dates, survival tips and how to get there, in our dedicated Full Moon Party guide.
Bangkok is the gateway to Southeast Asia and the starting point of Stray's Thailand to Laos route, which heads north through Chiang Mai before crossing into Laos for the two-day Mekong slow boat. Transport, handpicked accommodation, a knowledgeable local guide and the off-the-beaten-track stops are all organised, so you can spend your energy on the street food and the adventures instead of the logistics.
When is the best time to visit Thailand?
The dry season, November to February, when it's cooler and less humid. The wet season (May to October) is hot with 80 to 100 per cent humidity, though it's also quieter and greener.
What currency is used in Thailand?
The Thai Baht. ATMs are available in nearly every developed town and city, and changing money is easy at main airports and most banks, in both directions.
What food should I try in Thailand?
In Bangkok: tom yum goong, som tum, red and green curries, pad Thai and med ma muang. In Chiang Mai, khao soi is the essential local dish: a rich coconut curry soup with egg noodles and crunchy fried noodles on top.
What is Bangkok's real name?
Bangkok is the English name. The full Thai ceremonial name is 169 characters long, beginning Krung Thep Mahanakhon, and translates as 'The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha'. Locals shorten it to Krung Thep.
When are Chiang Mai's big festivals?
Yi Peng, the Lanna festival of lights famous for its sky lanterns, falls around October or November alongside Loi Krathong. Songkran, the nationwide water fight marking Thai New Year, happens around April.
Do I need vaccinations for Thailand?
See a travel doctor before you go to discuss which vaccinations you need. Mosquito-borne illnesses including dengue and, in remote areas, malaria are present, so strong insect repellent is a must, and valid travel insurance is essential.