Fiordland & the Deep South: The Complete Guide

The bottom of New Zealand saves the biggest drama for last. Fiordland is a world of sheer granite walls, rainforest and thousand-metre waterfalls, crowned by Milford Sound, the place Rudyard Kipling reputedly called the eighth wonder of the world. And beyond the mainland's southern tip, across Foveaux Strait, lies Stewart Island: a glimpse of what New Zealand looked like before people arrived, where the roads run out after 20 kilometres and the kiwi roam in daylight.

Here's the full guide to going deep south.

Milford Sound: the eighth wonder of the world

First, the technicality that makes it special: Milford is not actually a sound (carved by rivers) but a fiord, gouged out by glaciers, which explains the vertical walls that plunge straight into deep blue water. The scale is hard to process from photos. Mitre Peak, the fiord's most photographed resident, is the world's highest sea cliff at 1,692 metres, and Sutherland Falls on the Milford Track drops 630 metres.

The water hides its own wonder: a 2 to 4 metre layer of tannin-stained freshwater sits on top of the salt water, filtering the light so that deep-sea species live within metres of the surface. The result is a fiord teeming with fur seals, rare Fiordland crested penguins and dolphins. Around 120 people live here; several hundred thousand visit every year, and none of them forget it.

Cruise the fiord

The classic way in: a cruise on a purpose-built boat, nosing under waterfalls, past seal colonies and along the sheer rock walls to the Tasman Sea, with dining available on board. Stray travellers cruise Milford with RealNZ, and rain is no reason to reschedule; a wet day multiplies the waterfalls by the hundred.

• How to book: Book your RealNZ Milford Sound Cruise directly through Seymour, or secure our exclusive multi-day combo package pairing your cruise with the Stewart Island ferry.

Te Anau: gateway to Fiordland

The lakeside town of Te Anau (population 2,000) is Fiordland's base camp and the last proper stop before the Milford Road. Walk or cycle the Lake Te Anau shoreline, get your bearings at the Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre. Hikers should grab the Key Summit half-day walk off the Routeburn Track for one of the best view-per-hour ratios in the national park.

Don't miss the spectacular Te Anau Glowworm Caves. This magical underworld adventure begins with a scenic catamaran cruise across beautiful Lake Te Anau. On arrival at the western shore, you’ll step inside a 12,000-year-old network of limestone caves carved out by rushing rivers, before boarding a small boat to drift in absolute silence beneath a glittering galaxy of thousands of glowworms.

How to book: Secure your cave cruise on request directly through the Seymour app (available Wednesday and Thursday).

Stewart Island / Rakiura: New Zealand before people

In Māori tradition Stewart Island is Te Punga o Te Waka a Māui, the anchor stone of Māui's canoe. Today, 85 per cent of the island is conservation land, and introduced predators have been removed from key sanctuaries. While Stewart Island is not an active stop on current Stray itineraries, it makes the ultimate independent post-tour extension for travelers wanting to experience a raw, untouched slice of New Zealand.

Getting there

RealNZ express catamarans cross Foveaux Strait from Bluff to Stewart Island in about an hour. Because Stewart Island is not visited on active Stray tours, travelers must organize their own transport to the Bluff ferry terminal and book their ferry crossings directly with RealNZ.

Ulva Island bird sanctuary: guided bird spotting walks

Seven minutes by water taxi from Stewart Island, Ulva Island is a predator-free sanctuary where guided walks reveal unique, rare and endangered birds among ancient native forest: weka, Stewart Island robins and, famously, kiwi that feed in daylight as well as darkness, something that happens almost nowhere else. The guided walks cover both the birds and the botany, and Stewart Island itself holds one of New Zealand's largest kiwi populations.

• Where: book at Ulva's Guided Walks booking office, The Stewart Island Gift Shop, 20 Main Road, Oban

Stewart Island Village and Bays Tour

An entertaining minibus loop of New Zealand's southernmost community with a local guide: Rakiura National Park at Lee Bay, Horseshoe Bay, Observation Bay and the lookout over Paterson Inlet, with plenty of photo stops and short walks, and the island's history and environment narrated by people who live it.

• Where: departs the Oban Visitor Centre

Stay: Stewart Island Backpackers

A warm, friendly base on Ayr Street in Halfmoon Bay: big communal kitchen, BBQ area, pool table, laundry, and clean, warm rooms from dorms to singles with fresh bedding included. The freebies list is long (WiFi vouchers, DVD library, board games, a guitar, local calls, luggage storage), and between March and September you might catch the Aurora Australis from this latitude. Beds on the island are genuinely limited, so secure accommodation before you cross.

• Where: Ayr Street, Oban

Getting there with Stray

Fiordland is the signature southern leg of Stray's routes. Your guide will handle the spectacular drive along the Milford Road (with plenty of iconic photo stops) and coordinate your breathtaking Milford Sound Cruise through the Seymour app. If you wish to extend your journey to Stewart Island, you can easily arrange this independently once your Stray tour concludes.

FAQs

Is Milford Sound actually a sound?

No, it's a fiord: carved by glaciers rather than rivers, which is why its granite walls drop vertically into the sea. The misnaming stuck from the early European surveyors.

What is the world's highest sea cliff?

Mitre Peak in Milford Sound, rising 1,692 metres straight from the water. It's the most photographed feature of the fiord.

How do you get to Stewart Island?

By express catamaran from Bluff across Foveaux Strait, which takes about an hour. Because the island is not on the active Stray tour route, ferry tickets should be booked independently and directly with RealNZ.

Can you see kiwi in the wild on Stewart Island?

Yes, the island holds one of New Zealand's largest kiwi populations, and on predator-free Ulva Island, seven minutes away by water taxi, kiwi feed in daylight as well as at night.

Why is the wildlife in Milford Sound so unusual?

A 2 to 4 metre freshwater layer sits on top of the fiord's salt water and filters the light, so deep-sea species live close to the surface, alongside fur seals, Fiordland crested penguins and dolphins.

Can you see the Southern Lights from Stewart Island?

Sometimes, between March and September. Stewart Island's latitude makes it one of the more likely places in New Zealand to catch the Aurora Australis.