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Aotearoa - untamed
Vibrant + electric
New Zealand's east coast summer playground packs three icons into one stretch of coastline: Cathedral Cove, arguably the country's most picturesque beach; Hot Water Beach, where you dig your own natural spa in the sand; and Mauao, the extinct volcanic cone standing guard over Mt Maunganui's surf beaches. This guide covers both stops, the Coromandel's Hahei and the Bay of Plenty's Mount, and everything worth doing at each.
Hahei is a beautiful white-sand beach village on the Coromandel Peninsula, home to around 300 people, though the population swells to about 3,000 over the Kiwi summer holidays. The vibe is laid-back summer days: this is a place to relax, soak up some of New Zealand's most beautiful beaches, and use as your base for Cathedral Cove, which you can reach on foot, by boat or by kayak. One essential tip: wear sunscreen. Getting sunburnt can really ruin your day.
Cathedral Cove is only accessible on foot or by water, which is a big part of its magic. The most rewarding route is the coastline track from the northern end of Hahei beach, which takes you past Gemstone Bay (the best snorkelling spot) and Stingray Bay (home to a big explorable cave). A water taxi also runs regularly from Hahei beach if you'd rather save your legs, or see the coast from the water on a boat cruise or kayak tour.
Rated by New Zealand's leading tour companies as one of the best sea kayaking trips in the country, the Cathedral Cove Classic explores the Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve's beaches, islands and rock gardens. Paddle through sea caves, meet the local marine life, try kayak sailing with the wind at your back, and land at Cathedral Cove itself for the tour's famous cappuccinos and hot chocolates on the beach. The half-day trip includes qualified guides, all kayaking and safety gear, light refreshments and dry bags for your camera. Bring shorts, a t-shirt, a warm top, a water bottle and a sense of adventure, and book through the Seymour app for a special price.
The Hahei Explorer is an hour-long scenic boat trip covering up to 14 kilometres of the Hahei Marine Reserve's legendary volcanic coastline. With a maximum of ten passengers, you'll get up close to reefs, sea caves and a blowhole, pass a filming location from The Chronicles of Narnia, stop by Cathedral Cove and enjoy a light commentary on the area's history along the way. Book in the Seymour app for the discounted Stray rate.
Just a few kilometres down the road from Hahei is one of the Coromandel's most unique attractions. The whole region was shaped by the Coromandel Volcanic Zone, and Hot Water Beach is the best evidence of that volcanic past: geothermal activity just two kilometres beneath the surface naturally heats a spring running under the sand. At low tide, dig a hole in the right spot and you've made your own natural hot tub. Two tips: the springs are only accessible at low tide, and the water under the sand is genuinely hot, so watch your toes. If you see people with spades who look like they're digging for pirate treasure, you're in the right place.
More to do around Hahei
• Visit the historic Māori pā sites: at the southern end of Hahei beach, a 15-minute track climbs through an ancient pōhutukawa grove (New Zealand's Christmas trees, with bright red flowers each December) to Te Pare Historic Reserve, once the site of two Māori pā, defensive settlements where warriors kept watch along this spectacular stretch of coast.
• Snorkel the marine reserve: much of the water between Hahei and Cathedral Cove is a fully protected marine reserve teeming with life. Hire a mask and snorkel from the dive store for a self-guided snorkel at Gemstone Bay, or book a dive trip to the outer islands.
• Eating and drinking: Hahei's compact centre has a fish and chip shop, a convenience store, the Hahei Beach Cafe, Maddens Ice Cream, and The Pour House, with its beer garden, gourmet wood-fired pizzas and locally brewed beer. Stray travellers stay in purpose-built beachfront accommodation, complete with an outdoor area made for a classic Kiwi BBQ and a few cold ones.
Mt Maunganui: surf town at the foot of Mauao
Across in the gorgeous Bay of Plenty, opposite the harbour from Tauranga, Mt Maunganui is an upbeat coastal town with lively cafes, awesome surf breaks and a laid-back, sun-soaked vibe with a glam boutique twist.
The mountain itself, officially known by its Māori name Mauao (meaning "caught by the dawn") and locally as simply "The Mount", is an extinct volcanic cone... standing 232 metres above the sea. It is a highly significant Māori ancestral site (wāhi tapu) and an iconic symbol of the Bay of Plenty.
• The summit track: roughly 1 hour 30 minutes return, steep enough to earn it but manageable for reasonably fit walkers on a well-maintained track. The reward is stunning 360-degree views over the entire Western Bay of Plenty. Go at sunrise or sunset for cooler temperatures and golden-hour views.
• The base track: one of New Zealand's most popular scenic walks, an easy 45 minutes around the mountain's base with views of the harbour, ocean and white-sand beaches, and if you're lucky, a seal sunbathing on the rocks.
• Bonus, the Moturiki Island walk: keen for more? This funky little island just off the main beach offers an easy, flat stroll to a blowhole and a marked track up to a vantage point.
Beach, surf and soak
Mt Maunganui's white-sand beach is made for down-time: read a book, top up the tan, and demolish some classic Kiwi fish and chips. Beginner-friendly surf lessons cover everything from beach safety and paddle technique to catching your first wave, with boards and wetsuits available to hire cheaply. Prefer flatter water? Pilots Bay, a seven-minute walk across the peninsula, is a sheltered spot to hire a stand-up paddleboard or kayak and explore the harbour. And when your legs are done, the Mount Hot Pools at the base of Mauao are the world's only hot ocean water complex: heated saltwater pools at a range of temperatures, perfect after a hike or a surf.
The Mount's main strip covers Indian, Turkish, Japanese, Thai and Mexican, fast food and healthy boutique cafes; the hardest part is choosing. Local picks: Mount Social Club for tapas and a quirky interior, Wild One for wholefoods with plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, Bay Sushi for tasty sushi without the price tag, The Pizza Library for gourmet pizza eaten from old cinema and coach seats, and Astrolabe for backpacker-budget breakfast, lunch and dinner combos.
Nearby and worth it
• Tauranga: great dining, waterfront views and an art gallery with a rotating range of exhibitions, just across the harbour.
• McLaren Falls Park: scenic picnic spots by day and glow worm walks by night.
• Waimarino Adventure Park: a fun adventure park stop, especially if you're travelling with a crew.
There's no public rail to Hahei and coach options are limited, which is exactly why it's a Stray favourite: the route runs from Auckland into Hahei with beachfront accommodation waiting, then carries on through the Bay of Plenty and beyond. Sunrise on Hahei beach, a self-dug hot pool at Hot Water Beach and a summit sunset on Mauao all in the same trip, with the driving, bookings and local knowledge handled for you.
FAQs
How do you get to Cathedral Cove?
On foot or by water only. Hike the coastline track from the northern end of Hahei beach past Gemstone and Stingray Bays, catch the regular water taxi from Hahei beach, or arrive by kayak tour or scenic boat trip.
When can you dig a hot pool at Hot Water Beach?
Only at low tide, when the naturally heated spring under the sand becomes accessible. Time your visit around the tide, bring or hire a spade, and take care, as the water under the sand is genuinely hot.
Why is Hot Water Beach hot?
Geothermal activity about two kilometres beneath the surface heats mineral water that rises through the sand, a legacy of the Coromandel Volcanic Zone that shaped the whole peninsula.
How long does it take to climb Mt Maunganui?
The summit track takes about 1 hour 30 minutes return. It's steep but short and well maintained, making it manageable for reasonably fit walkers. The base track is an easy 45-minute loop. Sunrise or sunset are the best times to go.
What are the Mount Hot Pools?
Heated saltwater pools at the base of Mauao, the only hot ocean water complex in the world, with a range of pool temperatures. They're the perfect recovery after the summit climb or a surf session.
How far is Mt Maunganui from Auckland?
Around three hours by road, which is what makes the Coromandel and Bay of Plenty such a natural first leg of a North Island trip heading south towards Rotorua.