Christchurch & Kaikōura: The Complete Guide

The east coast of the South Island pairs two places that couldn't be more different, or work better together. Christchurch, the Garden City, has rebuilt itself into one of New Zealand's most interesting urban stories: street art, laneway bars and a food scene born from reinvention. Two and a half hours north, tiny Kaikōura sits between mountains and a deep ocean trench that brings giant sperm whales within sight of shore all year round.

Here's how to do them both properly.

Christchurch at a glance

Christchurch (population 375,000) is the South Island's largest city and New Zealand's second largest. The English arrived in numbers from 1850, and the colonial influence survives in the street names, the architecture and the River Avon winding through the centre, which is how the city earned the title of the Garden City.

The 22 February 2011 earthquake changed Christchurch profoundly. Walking around, you'll still see traces of what was lost, but what defines the city now is the revival: a massive facelift of chic restaurants, urban bars and funky cafes, and a creative energy you can read on the walls, quite literally, in the street art that grew out of the rebuild.

Things to see and do in Christchurch

Christchurch Botanic Gardens

Twenty-one hectares of gardens in the middle of the city, wrapped in a loop of the Avon, and completely free. Wander among the exotic plant collections, then drop by the visitor centre with its potting and herbarium sheds and on-site library. The classic Garden City experience.

• Where: Christchurch Central
• Cost: free

Christchurch Tram

The heritage tram is the best-value orientation lap of the city: a historic ride that delivers Christchurch's story and a live overview of the main sights, hopping between the central attractions from Cathedral Junction.

• Where: 109 Worcester Street, Cathedral Junction
• Hours: 9am to 6pm daily in summer (September to March), 10am to 5pm in winter

International Antarctic Centre

Christchurch is the gateway to Antarctica, the departure point for polar expeditions past and present, and this is where you experience it without the six-week voyage. Play in real snow (it falls every six minutes), survive an Antarctic storm in the storm room, meet Little Blue Penguins at their twice-daily feedings, ride a Hägglund all-terrain Antarctic vehicle, and yes, there's a husky cuddle zone. Add the 4D cruise and exhibits running from the early expeditions to life at Scott Base today.

• Where: 38 Orchard Road, near the airport
• Price: $59
• Good to know: book in your Seymour app for a special discount

More around the city

Explore the street art that turned post-quake walls into galleries, and get the full story of the earthquakes at Quake City. The 185 Empty White Chairs memorial on Cashel Street is a quietly moving tribute to the lives lost. Riverside Market covers shopping, fresh produce and casual eats in one indoor stop, and if you have a spare day, the French-flavoured harbour village of Akaroa is 75km away on Banks Peninsula.

Eating and drinking in Christchurch

Little High on High Street is the budget-friendly food hall of choice, Riverside Market handles casual grazing, and Smash Palace pours local beers in an eclectic outdoor beer garden with heaters for the chilly nights. For something different, the Christchurch Tramway Restaurant ($99 per person) serves dinner while the heritage tram loops the city.

Kaikōura: a meal of crayfish

Kaikōura means 'meal of crayfish' in te reo Māori, which tells you exactly what this town of 2,000 people is about. The vibe is quiet, relaxed and coastal, the locals are friendly and laid back, and just offshore a deep ocean trench meets the coast, creating one of the richest marine environments on the planet. Nowhere else in New Zealand puts whales, dolphins, seals and seabirds this close to the beach.

Whale Watch Kaikōura

New Zealand's only marine-based whale watching company, and the town's signature experience: an up-close encounter with the giant sperm whale, resident here all year round. Depending on the season you might also spot humpbacks, pilot whales, blue whales, southern right whales, orca and Hector's dolphins, plus fur seals, dusky dolphins and 13 species of albatross. The numbers speak for themselves: a 95 per cent success rate, backed by an 80 per cent refund guarantee if your tour doesn't see a whale.

• Where: Whaleway Station Road, Kaikōura
• Tours: 7:15am, 10am and 12:45pm daily, plus 3:30pm from November to March
• Good to know: dress warm with flat shoes, book ahead, and consider motion sickness precautions. Retail rate listed; book in your Seymour app for a discounted price

Whale Spotting from the Sky with Air Kaikōura

The ultimate aerial alternative: a 30-minute scenic flight over Kaikōura's whale sanctuary. Flying in a light aircraft gives you a perspective the boats can't offer—the ability to see the entire, majestic 18-meter sperm whale from head to tail as it rests on the surface. You'll take in views of the deep ocean canyon, the rugged peninsula, the Pacific coastline, and the snow-capped Seaward Kaikōura Ranges in one incredible panorama.

• How to book: Check live availability and secure your flight on request via the Seymour app for discounted rates.

Dolphin Encounter

Kaikōura is arguably the best place in the world to swim with dolphins, and dusky dolphins are the best dolphins in the world to swim with: the most acrobatic of all the species, spinning and flipping around swimmers in pods that can number in the hundreds. Wetsuits, fins and snorkelling gear are provided, GoPros can be hired with footage on USB, and if you'd rather stay dry you can watch and photograph from the boat.

• Where: 96 Esplanade, Kaikōura
• Tours: three daily in summer, two in winter, limited to 16 swimmers per boat, so book ahead
• Bring: togs, towel, warm jacket and hat
• Good to know: book in your Seymour app for a special discount

Eco-Zip Kaikōura

Experience New Zealand's newest and most spectacular zipline adventure. Perched high in the hills above the Kaikōura coastline, this tour features a series of giant, state-of-the-art dual ziplines. You'll soar side-by-side with a friend over deep valleys, rushing rivers, and lush native forest canopy, all while enjoying breathtaking panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean and the towering snow-capped mountains behind you.

How to book: Book your half-day zipline adventure on request through the Seymour app for discounted rates.

Kaikōura Seal Kayak

Paddle alongside Kaikōura's most famous residents in their natural habitat. This multi-award-winning guided sea kayaking eco-adventure takes you around the beautiful rock formations of the Kaikōura Peninsula. You'll get incredibly close to inquisitive New Zealand fur seals as they swim, dive, and play around your kayak, with blue penguins, dusky dolphins, and albatross often joining the party. It's gentle, eco-friendly, and perfect for all experience levels.

How to book: Check live sessions and book your kayak tour on request via the Seymour app for discounted rates.

Kaikōura Peninsula Walkway

A free half-day loop around the headland with wildlife the whole way. Start at Point Kean car park, where the local seal colony basks in the sun (and a famous seafood BBQ kiosk cooks the catch of the day), climb to the lookout platform, then follow the cliff tops to Whalers Bay and on past the predator-proof fence protecting an endangered colony of Hutton's shearwater, a seabird that breeds nowhere else on earth but the Kaikōura ranges. Return to town via South Bay and the Esplanade.

• Where: starts at Point Kean car park, West End
• Cost: free

Koura Bay Fishing Charters

Hands-on kai moana: head out on the Sophie-Rose, a purpose-built six-metre fishing boat, learn to pull crayfish pots and fish the deep water for blue cod and sea perch, with seals, albatross and dolphins around the boat. The day ends the right way: the crew cooks your catch, served with wine and good conversation.

• Where: 236 Esplanade, Kaikōura
• Price: $110 per person
• Bring: warm windproof layers, hat, sunscreen, water and a camera
• Good to know: This fishing charter is not booked through the app. You can organize your trip directly with your Stray Guide/Driver on the bus.

Eat the town's namesake

You can't leave without eating crayfish. The waterfront seafood carts serve cray, scallops, pāua and mussels straight off the boats, the local fish and chip shops compete hard for the town's best, and The Whaler pours local beers to finish the day.

Getting there with Stray

Christchurch is the gateway to Stray's South Island adventures, with trips departing north and south, and Kaikōura is one of the first great stops on the coastal run. Your driver can book the whales, dolphins and fishing trips as you go, with Seymour app discounts on most of the operators above.

FAQs

Can you see whales in Kaikōura all year round?

Yes. Giant sperm whales live off Kaikōura year-round, joined seasonally by humpback, blue, minke and southern right whales, orca and Hector's dolphins. Whale Watch Kaikōura reports a 95 per cent success rate and refunds 80 per cent if no whale is seen.

Is it better to see the whales by boat or by plane in Kaikōura?

The boat gets you closest; the 30-minute Wings over Whales flight shows the whole whale from above with no seasickness. Many travellers argue the answer is both.

Can you swim with dolphins in Kaikōura?

Yes, with wild dusky dolphins, the most acrobatic dolphin species. Tours run up to three times daily with a maximum of 16 swimmers per boat, and wetsuits and snorkelling gear are provided.

What does Kaikōura mean?

'Meal of crayfish' in te reo Māori. Fittingly, fresh crayfish from the waterfront seafood carts remains the town's must-eat.

What is there to do in Christchurch?

The free 21-hectare Botanic Gardens, the heritage tram, post-earthquake street art and the Quake City museum, Riverside Market, and the International Antarctic Centre ($59) with real snow, Little Blue Penguins and Hägglund rides.

How far is Kaikōura from Christchurch?

About 2.5 hours' drive north along the coast, making it an easy stop on any South Island route.